The creation of a fur is the result numerous hours of meticulous workmanship. One of the last articles of clothing that is completely made in hand.
The process starts with the designer. His ideas about form, texture, and color commence to find their realization in drafts. The next step is when they are transferred into a pattern by the pattern maker, who has to take into consideration practical matters such as fit and workability. More than often he will make many muslin mock-ups of the garment. This will allow him to form an idea of how the final product will look and make any necessary changes.
Skin selection
A specialist matches the skins for their correct size, pigment and density. The most proper ones must be chosen for each section of the garment. He studies the pattern and calculates the number of skins needed to make the garment and lays them out for the cutter.
Skin Cutting
The pelts are trimmed and blocked by the cutter so they are flat and ready for cutting. They are laid out on the pattern and the cutter determines the lengths needed, calculating the amount of cuts necessary for the let-out process. The let-out technique is a way of making longer and narrowing a skin to allow for constant, flowing stripes in the making of the garment. These stripes are usually directed vertically, horizontally or diagonally. The only limit in the direction of the stripes is set by the designer's imagination. By making many closely placed diagonal cuts and sewing each part slightly lower, the skin will finally be elongated and narrowed.
Putting the pelts together
What a sewer does, is to saw the stripes at a sawing machine. This is a delicate procedure and is assigned to the most experienced artisans.
Nailing
The nailer - which comes from the nails that were used until the early 80s - takes the fur stripes, wets them with lukewarm water, and staples them against the pattern which has been drawn on a board made of wood or compressed carton. His skill comes in forming and lining up the fur so that final product will look straight and even. He must also be extremely careful so that the pattern is entirely covered by the fur.The original pattern must be followed with surgical precision. When the nailer is finished, the garment is will be left to dry overnight naturally or it will be exposed to sunlight. Finally it will be released from the board. The staples must be removed gently so that the delicate fur is not torn.
Squarer
When the fur has completely dried the squarer r will lay the pattern on top of it and will mark it with a pen. Special tape is then placed around the edges so that they do not stretch further when the parts are sewn together. With the help of a razor knife, the extra fur outside the pattern lines, is trimmed away. The fur is fluffed up with the glazing process.
Closer
The body parts, the sleeve, and the collar are assembled together by the closer who sews them on the over-cast fur sewing machine. The garment is hanged up on a fitting form and is checked for any problems. It is finally given to the finisher for the last part of the making process.
Finisher
The finisher takes the closed garment and sews by hand the labels, collar, sleeve and bottom edges, adding padding, shoulder pads, or any other finishing touches. The lining is cut and hand sewn. The final garment is cleaned by specialized fur cleaning equipment and it is meticulously inspected for flaws before it is released to the market.
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